[YesAuto David Aesthetics] As a luxury car owner, why do you look more like a parking brother, a car washer, or a car editor driving a test drive? Because your understanding of the quality of elegant life is not yet in place. When it comes to elegance, many people often think of haute couture, so this time we found a Shanghai Red Gang tailor who has been customizing handmade suits for nearly 30 years, and talked about the relationship between car design and elegant life.
30 seconds to understand the full text:
1. Why is the custom suit fully lined more advanced?
2. The line design of customized suits and vehicles is to emphasize the hormonal charm of “body shape”.
3. Suits are elegant, highlighting high-end, and like cars, they are focused on details, not publicity.
Big city, small shop, master
Yuyuan Road, which emerged in the 1920s, is lined with old houses, former residences of celebrities, dense historical buildings, lush phoenix trees, and various literary and artistic shops. For a hundred years, it seems that the flow here is slower than the outside.
When talking about suit customization in China, the first thing people in the circle think of is the Red Gang tailor developed in Shanghai. Hong Gang tailors can be said to be the main body of modern Chinese clothing history. They started from Ningbo tailors who tailored clothing for foreigners in the late Qing Dynasty and the early Republic of China. The first monograph on suit theory and the first suit technology school.
Custom clothing requires a very high level of skill and experience of the tailor. This is another low-frequency buying behavior, so many people will look for this person as long as they find a tailor they like. This is similar to the situation where it is difficult to find a hairdresser who understands what he wants.
Therefore, although Master Zhu has brought out many young tailors over the years, and has also participated in several tailor-made suit shops with a tall environment, he still sticks to his own small world.
In the first few years after Master Zhu opened, foreign ready-made garments have further flooded into China, especially the low-priced, fast-paced machine craft suits, which caused many craftsmen to leave the industry. The important reason why Master Zhu can persevere is because of the manual craftsmanship such as full lining.
Why does the full lining process become exclusive to handmade custom suits?
This starts with the characteristics of the suit itself. Suits are ceremonial costumes originated in Europe. In the movie “Ace Agent”, Harry Hart said: “A suit is the armor of a modern gentleman.” Regardless of whether you agree with this point of view, suits have indeed absorbed the design style of armor and military uniforms during the long development process. There are many genres of suits. At present, British and Italian styles are commonly used in the domestic handmade customization industry.
Regardless of the genre, suits are meant to modify the figure and have achieved the purpose of emphasizing masculine charm. The problem is that people have huge differences in body shapes, and rigid garments of M, L, and XL specifications simply cannot be highly compatible with the wearer.
To achieve the purpose of better modification of the figure, a very high degree of fit is required, so the high fit and drape of the full lining process show its power. In terms of comfort, it is naturally better. As for the price, customers who choose to customize naturally don't care.
What suits and luxury have in common
In Master Zhu's view, the design and customization concept of suits is similar to the design of many cars, such as the Audi Q7 we brought. As a luxury car, it is no longer just a means of transportation.
Through various methods such as shoulder pads and waist reduction, a suit creates a full chest, broad shoulders, and a strong waist. So thin or obese people wear custom suits, which can make themselves look stronger or reduce their bloatedness.
But we can't put too much emphasis on being strong, the times are changing, and the aesthetics of the entire society are moving towards elegance. Even if the rough and powerful tooling enters the urban fashion, it is just a comfortable city dress that retains the tooling style. Suits are made to enhance elegance.
The growth of the customer base of haute couture suits is also largely due to the improvement of the quality of life, and more and more people pay more attention to quality and details. As the saying goes, menswear should be looked up close.
Luxury does not lie in publicity lies in the details
Compared with the colorful and varied women's clothing, men's clothing has fewer styles and less frequent purchases. Therefore, high-end men's clothing pay more attention to materials and details, and pursue low-key luxury.
Some details of the suit are for aesthetics, but more are for practicality, or decoration evolved from practicality. On the Audi Q7, Master Zhu saw many similar practical details, full of wisdom of life.
Regarding suits and cars, Master Zhu not only saw the design, but also made an interesting point: In the early years, people customized suits, and they often proposed to make them bigger because they had to add sweaters to them when it was cold, but now this demand is already there. It's very rare. He thinks that because of the popularity of cars, the air conditioning in the car allows people in suits to maintain their grace and elegance.
to sum up:
In order to make better and more high-end suits, Master Zhu has been paying attention to and learning from the world's suit trends for a long time. The dresses of politicians and celebrities from various countries are his research materials. Years of professional experience and professional knowledge have given him a mature and in-depth view of the sense of luxury. The design of the Audi Q7 is very aesthetic to him. The overall look is simple, regular, and powerful but not bloated. You can find many interesting details to express emotions, the interior is soft and comfortable, and the parts are designed based on ergonomics.
Whether it's a suit or an Audi Q7, all designs are based on people's natural needs and natural aesthetics.